The re-wire - part 2

Another few hours spent on the wiring loom has the majority of the modifications made to the wiring loom. The original layout of the loom used the ignition barrel to switch and pass power to the many circuits in the car, it has now been altered such that the ignition barrel will now only switch power, via a relay, to the rest of the fuse box and switch the stater solenoid when required. This way the ignition barrel does not have to switch and pass through such a high current as before with the added advantage that by removing the main relay the car will be a lot harder to start, an added anti-theft device.

Additional wires have been put in the loom for switching the fuel pump relays, tacho and screen washer pump, the new bottle had one included so I may as well use it. While many other wires have been re-routed to take power and switch from the central fuse and relay box.
To give myself a bit more space on the dash area, the old rocker style hazard light switch with separate dash warning light has been replaced with a combined switch and repeater taken from my long rotted away Dolomite - at least the spares are sill coming in handy.

Upon the suggestion of others, the loom will go back in with extra multiway inline connectors to make removal of the loom or assemblies such as the steering column much easier, as at the moment there is nine connections to be made when re-fitting the steering column, not always an easy job to get right in such a cramped and at times dark area.

Just got to wait on the next delivery from VWP, sure I can find something else to get on with though.

The re-wire - part 1

Part 1, yes I do think it is going to take a bit to get right. Earlier on in the week I had my delivery from VWP, including a stack of different coloured and rating wires and the combined fuse and relay box. Just as I thought would happen, I forgot to order a length of spiral wrap when I placed the order, but managed to pick some up locally.
Having removed much of the original self amalgamating tape, which the loom was covered in, I had planned to replace it only with the afore mentioned spiral wrap, but seeing how it goes on, I have decided in my next order to VWP to get a few rolls of tape to cover it again.
At present, the GT6 wiring loom is in two parts, joined together behind the existing fuse box, the second half supplying switching and power to lights, etc.. in the rear of the car. Both half of the loom are out of my car now, to make it easier to trace, replace and add wires as necessary.

I was a bit daunted by the whole thing when I first contemplated all of these wiring modifications, but now I am getting into it I am quite enjoying it.
The next thing will be to work out what I need in my next order to VWP, self amalgamating tape, switches, inline connectors and anything else I can think of.

Just planning

Have not done that_much since getting the GT6 back, appart from re-fitting some components to get them out of the way and give me some idea of how to fit and link every thing together.

There are three main areas I want to concentrate on, the cooling system, fuel system and electrical systems. I believe the best place for the header tank for the cooling system would be in the battery tray, which of course means the battery will have to be re-located. The logical new site for the battery is in the boot area either behind the driver or next to the fuel tank, both sites will require the battery to be securely mounted and sealed.

As power is also required to get the fuel system fully functional, I have decided to concentrate on the electrical system first.

The current system uses only three fuses and two solenoids, the new system, which I have been musing over for a few hours now, will have space for 26 fuses and nine relays. The reasoning behind this is to make the electrical system safer, any faults easier to find, capable of supplying the extra power now required and up to modern standards.

The big bulkhead mounted solenoid will be redundant, replaced by the solenoid on the Nippon Denso starter and the horn relay and flasher units will be replaced with modern type electronic units all fitted in a combined fuse and relay box.

A bigger stud

After having a couple of wheel studs fail on my old Dolomite and then seeing the condition of the wheel nuts that came with my Revolutions wheels, I have not been too happy with the original 3/8" wheel studs. Fortunately this issue has come up in discussion forums in the past and a suitable alternative has already been identified. The upgrade is to use M12 X 1.5 wheel studs from a Land Rover Freelander, these just happen to have the same diameter of splinded area, so the hubs do not have to be altered to accept these new ones. The advantage of these is the much larger diameter and length of studs and the availability of alternative wheel nuts, as it looked at one time I was going to have great difficulty in finding replacement wheel nuts for my Revolution wheels.




























I seem to have amassed a collection of Lucas electric high pressure fuel pumps for the PI system, so I decided to go through them and check the condition of the pump units and the electric motors. The pump which I had put aside with the intention of using in my car had one of the best pump units, showing very little ware on the pump body from the gears. The electric motor part was blown out to remove dust and the armature was cleaned off, removing any high spots. Should at least get me started I hope.