Mostly good.

On Monday, the water pump I ordered last week was eventually delivered and the Triumph part company involved apologised for the delay and offered a goodwill gesture, more about this later. So the water pump was soon fitted, helped by the brilliant engine access on these small chassis Triumphs and the fact that the radiator on the GT6 is a reasonable distance forward of the engine, so there is no clearance issues when changing the pumps.
The old water pump had not leaked that_much, but it was certainly on its way out, with a notable increase in end float of the pump and quite noisy bearing. Certainly much better now with the new pump.

Over the weekend, I sent through the stores shed and picked through my collection of Lucas distributors to decide which one to fit. I decided to go for a Lucas 45D6 distributor, as while it doesn't have a vernier adjuster for the vacuum advance, I do happen to have a supply of good rotor arms from Rarebits, as they are the same as those used on the 2000 saloon.
As the chosen distributor had been sat in a box for some months, it was stripped down, cleaned up and lubricated as necessary before re-assembly and while I was in there, the wire from the coil to the points was re-soldered for good measure and the points cleaned up.

Although I should have done it some time ago, before starting the engine, the end float of the distributor drive has been set. This is done using thin shims between the distributor pedestal and the block, at only 4thou each they hardly seem thick enough to do anything.

A tax disc was also brought earlier on in the week; I've had to pay for it this time, as although the car was first registered before 1973, the taxation class of it has not been changed to historic vehicle yet. It seems that to change the taxation class of a vehicle now, you have to go to your 'Local DVLA office', which for me is in Bristol or Cardiff, though they are only open 9-5 during the week, which means finding a suitable time to go and see them could take a while and as I was keen to get out on the road. I decided to get a six month tax disc and then get a refund at the 'Local office' when I change the taxation class.

So that means I am fully legal on the road, so I have been out on the road for the past few evenings to see how it drives. It has been over a year since I have driven a small chassis Triumph for any distance and the fist time in a GT6, so it has been interesting to get used to the driving style.

The only problem I have had so far has been when after my fist evening out driving, the spherical bush which is used to locate the gear stick disintegrated, fortunately this finally gave way only when I got home. Luckily, for me, I had a useable second hand one, which was fitted later that evening.
This has planted a seed of doubt as to how long these bushes can last, so I contacted the company who offered to refund the cost of postage of the water pump as a goodwill gesture and asked if instead they could put another of these bushes in the post to me, which they agreed to do. After all, the bush was going to be more useful and it gets them off from having to back charge a payment to my credit card, so it all worked out for the best.

Upwardly mobile

After almost three years of ownership I finally got my GT6 out for a MOT and even better, it passed first time with no advisories, just positive comments from the tester about the CV conversion on the rear and the condition of the underside.

Though to put a bit of a damper on it, I did have to pull over on the way back as the car mis-fired and refused to start again, so it was up with the bonnet. As I lifted the distributor cap off, the rotor arm was not in it's proper place, so I am guessing it may have jumped out?
I shall see if I can fit a Lucas dizzy for possibly increased reliability over the old Delco unit, but the next major job for me will be getting the Megajolt system built up and fitted.

It's great to have it almost on the road, though I still need to get the tax applied for, but there is not too much of a rush as I had been hoping to fit a new water pump before the MOT, unfortunately it has still not been delivered. Apparently the address or telephone number on the package was not correct or clear enough, so the courier could not deliver it or contact me, should have gone to Fitchetts really as I know they always get parts out to me next day, oh well, we live and learn. The plan now is to try and get it to run something like right as the carbs still need balancing & adjusting and then go out and put some miles on it.

It is a bit of a shock to the system as I had not driven a small chassis Triumph in anger for over a year, it does feel a lot more steady now on the 175 tyres compared to the 155's I had on it before I went off for the MOT.

New Arrivals

Last week the new chassis for the Lightweight was delivered, ready modified to take the 200tdi engine and fully galvanised, so it ought to last a few years. Unfortunately, work on the Land Rover will be slow for a bit as we wait for some reasonable weather to get the remaining bodywork cleaned off and painted. Added to this the replacement springs, new parabolic ones, are not expected to be delivered until Christmas, so we cannot start building up the new chassis until we get those.


Later on in the week, a couple of guys came out to fit a new windscreen in the GT6. Seeing as a new screen from Moss would be close on £110, I thought that the deal I got was not too bad as two guys came out to fit it, taking 45 minutes to do the job, only cost me £100. I can't help but think they did not make much of a profit on that job.

Meanwhile, many of the smaller jobs required to get the GT6 through a MOT have been completed, with the screen wash system plumbed in and lined up and a exhaust system sealed up and clamped down.
A slightly more long-winded job was in the making of an air box. When I did the bulkhead modifications many months ago it was my intention to fit a modified Spitfire air box, not ideal I know, but it is a starting point.

Instead of trying to fill in the old holes in the Spitfire back plate and to make alignment of the new holes much easier I decided to pull apart an old GT6 air box and weld that to the back of the Spitfire one. It all looks a bit agricultural at the moment but it should at least see me onto the road. I just need to find some suitable filters to go over the end of the tubes and then it should be good to go until I get round to making something better.

Steps forward

I’ve been having another bash at the GT6, with a view to getting it MOT’d and on the road before the end of the year. Most of the big jobs that needed to be done before it had any chance of passing a MOT had already been completed, so now it has come to working through the long list of minor jobs.

One job that did cause a bit of a headache for a time was trying to get all of the lights working. With a bit of vigorous wobbling around of the bulb holder I was able to get the bulb to work for a time, but not to a point I would trust it for any length of time.
I decided to take the holder apart to clean it up and see where the weak link was. They seem to be failing where the negative contact for the bulb should mate with the larger which holds the assembly to the light unit. I have tried cleaning it all up and re-assembling it again, but that does not seemed to have improved it much.
To work around this, I ended up drilling through the two negative contacts and with the addition of a small screw, it holds the two contacts together so much better.
After getting a few other jobs out of the way, I have returned to fitting the new speedo, spending some time fabricating a bracket to hold the pick-up sensor on the diff. The bracket was built-up on the bench using a spare diff to make sure it all fitted properly before transferring it to the car. As the suppliers suggested, the propshaft bolts have been replaced with cap head ones to aid the pick up sensor.
Over the next few evening I hope to get the speedo wired up, just need to run power lines to the pick-up sensor and speedo head from the fuse box, connect the data line from pick-up sensor to the speedo and wire in the warning lights.

For the MOT, the car will just have the one seat fitted for a couple of reasons, I have not round to fitting the second seat to it's runner yet and as I have not been able to enguage the overdrive at speed yet, I would like to know it works before fitting the seat and hence making removal of the gearbox tunnel much harder.

I should have someone coming in later this week to fit a new windscreen, the current one might pass the MOT but it has so many minor scratches that it would annoy me all too quickly. Then that just leaves the screen wash system, front chassis over riders and front number plate to be fitted up before I consider booking in for a MOT.

Lightweight bulkhead repairs

With the Lightweight back in the barn I have been able to crack on with some remedial work on the lower bulkhead and it's mounting. On the passenger side, close to where it mounts to the chassis, the main bulkhead rail had suffered quite badly to corrosion. Initial thought were on how best to repair it, but the more I poked away at it, the less savable it became.

Wanting to get it done right and not have to come back to it again in a few years time, I took the decision to fabricate a new lower section to replace the heavily corroded part. Although the final piece is to be a channel section, I started off with a length of 2" box section as this was what was to hand and could ofcourse be cut down to size. Using the lathe a hole was soon bored close to the bottom to accept the lower mounting point/spreader tube, which was then welded in.

In an attempt to make sure every thing lined up, a basic jig was made up from a piece of Dexian, which seemed to work quite well as it already had all the holes in it I required.

Old and new bulkhead sections side by side

Old piece removed

New piece in, welded and painted

Outer panel also fitted.

RBRR 2008

Woops, a bit of updating needed here.

The RBRR has been and gone, but I'll back track a bit first. As mentioned in my last post, I got myself and fitted a pair of re-conditioned control arms. The effect of fitting these was to tighten up the front end, but unfortunately at the same time it knocked the tracking out of alignment as it had put the suspension geometry back in the right place after having dropped partly through the old rubber bushes.


With the tracking re-done there was not much else to do in preparation for the RBRR other than put a basic tool kit together, grab a few spares, then give the car a polish and add the car stickers.
Joining me on the run was Bruce Sellers, aka GT6Boy, aka MotherTheressa and Nikolaj Blomberg, aka Nick B, who flew in from Copenhagen to do the run, whom I met for the first time at the start of the run a few hours before the start.

I've not that much to report from the run, we drove on some good and at times challenging roads, oh, and it rained a few times. The car generally behaved itself, with us only having to stop once to fix a wire up to the overdrive switch, which had failed close to a crimp joint and that was made good again using a inline connector I had in the spares.

With the run and travelling to the start from South Wales, the car covered about 2,300 miles, returning about 32mpg, not too bad for a 42 year old car I thought.

Since getting back from the run the car has been de-stickered, washed and waxed again, but that's about it for now. The Lightweight Land Rover has returned, so I can see a few hours going into that again soon.

Thanks to Nick Jackson for this last picture and there are more pictures from the run, taken by Nick B here

This and that.

Time for an update me thinks, a couple of weeks ago I took the 2000 saloon off for it's MOT and it passed with only one advisory, a nail in one rear tyre, so that'll have to get changed before the RBRR. Another re-con propshaft has also been fitted, as the one on there was starting to rumble at around 70mph. Leaving the only other job I would like to do before the run, being a front suspension control arm as I think there must be some slack in it as there is still some steering shake when braking hard or hard cornering at speed.
With the GT6 gearbox tunnel almost finished, I turned my attention back to the Lightweight for another bash at it. The main chassis rails have now been welded up and a start made on the bulkhead repairs. Meanwhile the old series engine and gearbox has been lifted out so we can clean up the bulkhead in preparation for painting and removal of the old redundant military wiring.
Th remains of the Lightweight have now gone off to a local garage to have the front axle re-built and the differential crown wheel and pinions taken from a Landrover Discovery, which is also to donate it's engine.
Once it gets back there will still be some welding required to fit new outriggers for the bulkhead and a fuel tank outrigger.



Woof!

Bit more tunneling and brakes

With the new CV boots on the GT6 it was time to set up the rear brakes, with the manual brake adjusters taken up to just before the brake shoes bit. Wishing I had done it when the body was separated, I set to replacing both handbrake cables, the rear one having stretched two inches, removing any scope for adjustment.
I replaced the rear brake cable on my old Spitfire a few years ago and find that to be a right pig of a job, but the GT6, having the cable guides on the body instead of the chassis, was a lot easier to do as you can get your hand through the opening in the body for the top of the differential to help guide the cable through. After threading it through the rest of the guides, it was covered in grease and worked back and forth a few times to help spread it along the guides.

Further forward, I bit the bullet and got to completing the gearbox tunnel. It was a job I was dreading, as I knew it would involve a lot of fitting and re-fitting if I was going to have any chance of it fitting properly.

First fit:


Clamped down ready for first welding:


Partially welded:


Copleted-ish and painted:


Inside coved with reflective sound deadening:


Meanwhile the 2000 saloon has been receiving a bit of attention as a few weeks ago I noticed a bit of slack in the steering of my MkI 2000, but recently it got worse and instead of it being a track rod end, as I thought it might be, it turned out that the slack is due to the coupling adaptor at the bottom of the top steering column.
So I striped out the steering columns, after removing the upper pinch bolt, the upper column sipped round in the joint all too easily. I thought the column was going to be a pain to get out, having had to remove the one in my GT6 a few times, but the saloon was a lot easier, once I had the indicator unit out.
The evidence was clear to see:


Fortunately, I had a spare steering column from the spares front end, which came with the car, so that was fitted in place, along with the intermediate shaft. The whole lot is much better and tighter now, just as well as the MOT is due in a few weeks and then after that, 2000 miles of the RBRR.

A few more steps forward

After last weeks run, a few more issues with the GT6 identified themselves, no surprise really as I have never had this car running even semi-properly before.
The rear brake cylinders have now been replaced and bled through again. At the same time I had a look at the brake adjusters, just as well as both were seized, one had to be replaced, but the other was still serviceable, so these were reassembled, with a light smear of coppaslip on the moving adjuster faces and plenty on the main adjuster screw.

Looking back, I notice it was back in September 2006 when I first assembled the Jones/Bowler CV conversion on the GT6. Back then I was considering the clearance between the inner CV boot and the chassis and was hoping that when the rear spring settled it would give more clearance. Not surprisingly to me now, there was no great increase in clearance as the inner boot is not going to move that much as it's position is mainly fixed by the diff, which doesn't tend to move around that much either. To get round this, I ordered and fitted a pair of 'fast CV boots', much neater now.



I am finding it very useful at the moment to keep a note book with me whilst working on the GT6, this way I can make a note of problems or issues as they come up, with the moral boosting activity of being able to cross off jobs as they get done, though the list seems to be growing faster than I can cross them off at the moment.

It lives

I brought a can of petrol after work yesterday evening and got my GT6 started for it's first run after switching from domed to flat top pistons and having all the running gear semi useable.

At the moment the engine feels quite tight, hope this is just down to the new rings bedding in.

Although the braking system is all as new, one of the rear brakes is dragging quite a bit, must be something to do with not being used for at least three years, despite the fluid going in only last week

There are a few minor water leaks also, so I will need to sort those before going too wild.

But for the first time in my ownership, I have been able to drive it, well chuffed

The sound is really poor on my little camera, but it is proof it has run, idle is way to high at the moment.

Coming together

It's been another quite bust weekend, with the decision to finish building up the engine in the GT6. For now I am using a cylinder head I had reconditioned ready for the 2000 saloon, when I had the time, inclination and parts to do it.

One part which was always going to be a pain was the main exhaust pipe, the engine having been moved back six inches making extra problems of preventing it from hitting the chassis rails. When I brought this GT6 a couple of years or so ago, I was given a exhaust downpipe, believing it was for a GT6, but now in cutting it around to make it fit my car, I found it had a part number on it, TH125, which turns out to tell me it is for a MkII Vitesse, so it was never going to fit my car without modification anyway.

I have managed, I hope, to solve the problem with the errant flashing lights. This was traced down to two wires being soldered in the wrong position when I added the more modern combined hazard light switch and repeater.Most of the electrics, which I have connected so far, seem to work, but many of the exterior facing lights, indicators, side lights etc.. required a bit of wiggling around of the bulbs to get them to work, indicating poor electrical conducts, so I will need to go round and check them all out.

The fuel system has also been re-fitted, this time a mechanical pump being used, one which I had picked up on eBay a couple of weeks ago, the advantage being that it will also fit the saloon in a emergency should I need it.

If all goes to plan, I hope to get the GT6 started in the next few days, should be a good moral boost eh?

Fault finding & fluid fill.

Fortunately one of the electrical faults was easy to find, identifiable by the cracking noise of wires shorting. This came from the column dip/main beam light switch, it looks like a mixture of hot wires and abrasion has damaged the wires up by the switch. To remedy this, I have cut the wires, soldered them back together and sealed it off with heat shrink, though I shall keep an eye out for a replacement one for the future.



In preparation for getting the car drivable, the clutch and brake system has been filled and bled. As both systems are new or have had new seals fitted, eg. brake calipers, there should not be a problem with leaks or seals going, though for some reason I did have to replace one of the rear slave cylinders as it refused to pass fluid through it, not quite sure what was going on there.

GT6 tidy & hook up

Spent a fairly busy weekend on the GT6, cutting and fixing down to length the water lines going to the header tank. At the moment all the lines are in flexible pipe, giving me the option to re position as necessary, in the future I would like to replace much of it with aluminium tube for added protection, but it should do for now.
Much of the wiring around the engine bay has been chopped to length where required and connected up, meaning I should be able to leave a lot of that alone for now until the next round of improvements.

With the number of smaller jobs running down, I decided to try connecting the battery, not something which has been done since the re-wire. I hoped everything would work straight out of the box, but it seems I will have some fault finding to do.
The first and most noticeable problem is something to do with the one of the flasher units, at a guess it would be the hazard, as I have changed the switch and relocated the unit. With the battery connected, the flasher unit is causing the ignition and oil warning light to flash, but no sign of the proper light flashing, though this might be due to blown bulbs or bad contacts, I have not checked this yet.
Also noticeable is the variable nature of some of the light switches, needing a bit of working back and forth to get them to operate, hope I do not have to replace too many switches.

Looks like I might have quite a bit of fault finding to do yet and try to work out where I have gone wrong with my re-wiring.

Project lightweight

Down on the farm where I live/work, my boss has a series III lightweight Land Rover, which he plans to get back on the road after a number of years sat on one of the barns, but re-engining it with a slightly more modern 200 series 2.5tdi engine. Over the years the chassis has been patched and had parts replaced, but one of the reasons it has been laid up recently is due to chassis rot again, this time on the main chassis rail on the topside, under the floor panels.
There are at least two ways of gaining access to this area, removal of the rear body tub and, more simply, removal of the rear floor. Since we are not keen on making too much work for ourselves and the floor is corroding through in places, it was decided to lift the floor panel. This was done in an hour or so after drilling out all of the rivets and carefully prising the panel up. With this panel up the chassis can be cleaned up and decisions made on how much to repair it, just need to wait for some steel to be delivered before I start the welding.




















Meanwhile, the GT6 has been receiving a bit of attention, with some of the smaller jobs being finished off and tidied up. The wiring under the dash is now, hopefully, complete having added a momentary switch for the screen wash pump and connected the inertia switch to the two fuel pump switches.
In the engine bay, the coolant header tank has been sited in what was the battery box, the two lower connections going through holes cut in the bulkhead support panel and the whole lot given extra support with a small bracket underneath the tank.

Polished rocker

Been doing a bit of maintenance for the saloon and preparation for the GT6 by servicing up a couple of sets of rockers for the six cylinder engines. A problem I had been having with the saloon was accurately setting the valve clearances; this was in part due to a slightly worn rocker shaft, but largely due to the worn faces of the rockers.













New rockers are available, but seeing as I had the time and inclination, I decided to service the ones I had. First off the shaft was stripped down and the components left to soak on paraffin for a couple of hours before being scrubbed clean using a wire brush on a drill and any oil ways cleaned through. The ware face was then carefully polished using WD40 on 600 grade glass paper, taking good are to alter the polishing angle as I went along, to maintain the radius on the face.
The rocker assembly was then re-assembled with copious amounts oil on a new rocker shaft.















Back on the saloon after the clearances were set, the valve train sounds a lot quieter now, so a successful job then, which was then proven with a trip over to Carmarthen to have a look at a MkI GT6, the new owner of which has also started a blog.

An Update

There has been a bit of a lull in work on my GT6, partly due to a lack of enthusiasm and partly due to being busy around the farm.
In the meantime, after a bit of deliberation with other people on the DS Forum, I decided to invest in a rivnut tool. This tool allows you to fit a threaded tube into any panel where there is sufficient clearance behind it. The main reason for this purchase was to allow me to neatly route the battery cables from the battery box behind the driver, past the drivers seat and on through the bulkhead to the starter.
One alternative to rivnut was to use self-tapping screws through the panels, but I thought that a bit scruffy to have screws pointing out underneath the car, with a propensity to rust. So instead, aluminium rivnuts with stainless cap head bolts are being used, much better in my opinion.
The battery box needed to be modified to fit in the boot area and still allow the panels to be fitted over it. In order to do this, the box needed to be shortened by six inches, this was simply done by accurately cutting the box in half, sliding one half in the other, decide the correct height, then fix the two pieces back together again using pop rivets and Adhesal.














The more I have been working with the GT6 and it's fuel system, the less happy I have been with the original fuel hose and fittings, these being a mix of mild steel and plastic, especially as it has to carry in excess of 100psi petrol. To improve matters, I have decided to use modern braided fuel hoses to run to and from the metering unit in the engine bay.
The system uses 9/16" (-6 JIC) hose for the feed to the metering unit, requiring an adaptor at the metering unit end to convert from BSP to 9/16" (-6 JIC) and a 30° swept joint to clear the bulkhead.
For the spill back, 7/16" (-4 JIC) is being used, again with a BSP to JIC converter at the metering unit end. I am waiting on this smaller BSP to JIC converter at the moment, seems it is a bit of an unusual size, but once I get it, work can start on laying out the fittings, to decide where best to route the fuel hoses and the lengths required.

Hard at it

After quite a bit of planning, re-planning and swearing, I think I have broken the back of my wiring. The original fuse box has gone, replaced with a multi fuse and relay box. Looks a lot neater now, though I can still see myself re-wiring it again when I change the dash.

In progress















Almost done

Plodding on

The rear half of the wiring loom, from the fuse box back, has been re-covered with the original specification tape after any redundant wires had been removed and any poor quality joints had been re-made. So this section has now been re-threaded into the car and a new twelve way connector has been fitted at the fuse box end to aid quick and easy connection to the rest of the system.
The front interior section of the wiring loom has now been fitted back in the car to check for fit and give me some idea of what length the wire to the additional switches needed to be.

Some thought has gone into the location of the combined fuse and relay box, originally it was going to be fitted in approximately the same place as the original, in the battery box. I have gone off this idea as it puts the relays, fuses and connections in a more harsh environment and would male removal harder. Instead, the box will be mounted on the side of the passenger tray, still perhaps not ideal, but it ought to make routing of wire easier.



As the fuse and relay holders are modular in a carrier, a hole was cut in the side of the parcel tray to accept the holder, with a strengthening plate also fitted around the cutout as the tray is somewhat flimsy even before cutting chunks out of it.






There was a added and unwanted job that appeared over the weekend was that I was longer able to shut the rear hatch.
It had been a bit of a pain to shut and made some grinding noises when moving it, I guessed it was just down to lack of lubrication, so I ended up leaving it down but not latched into position overnight, but it seemed to have moved, with the latch being approx 1/2" out of alignment.
After trying to get it to lign up by slackening off the mounting bolts, I replaced the spring and hinge unit from that side and now is shuts much better than it ever has done before in my ownership. Will have to find some more paint now as I now have one green hinge and one magenta.

As long as no other jobs come up on the car, the next step will be to wire in the fuse and relay box, then see about getting power from the battery to the box, via the starter.

The re-wire - part 2

Another few hours spent on the wiring loom has the majority of the modifications made to the wiring loom. The original layout of the loom used the ignition barrel to switch and pass power to the many circuits in the car, it has now been altered such that the ignition barrel will now only switch power, via a relay, to the rest of the fuse box and switch the stater solenoid when required. This way the ignition barrel does not have to switch and pass through such a high current as before with the added advantage that by removing the main relay the car will be a lot harder to start, an added anti-theft device.

Additional wires have been put in the loom for switching the fuel pump relays, tacho and screen washer pump, the new bottle had one included so I may as well use it. While many other wires have been re-routed to take power and switch from the central fuse and relay box.
To give myself a bit more space on the dash area, the old rocker style hazard light switch with separate dash warning light has been replaced with a combined switch and repeater taken from my long rotted away Dolomite - at least the spares are sill coming in handy.

Upon the suggestion of others, the loom will go back in with extra multiway inline connectors to make removal of the loom or assemblies such as the steering column much easier, as at the moment there is nine connections to be made when re-fitting the steering column, not always an easy job to get right in such a cramped and at times dark area.

Just got to wait on the next delivery from VWP, sure I can find something else to get on with though.

The re-wire - part 1

Part 1, yes I do think it is going to take a bit to get right. Earlier on in the week I had my delivery from VWP, including a stack of different coloured and rating wires and the combined fuse and relay box. Just as I thought would happen, I forgot to order a length of spiral wrap when I placed the order, but managed to pick some up locally.
Having removed much of the original self amalgamating tape, which the loom was covered in, I had planned to replace it only with the afore mentioned spiral wrap, but seeing how it goes on, I have decided in my next order to VWP to get a few rolls of tape to cover it again.
At present, the GT6 wiring loom is in two parts, joined together behind the existing fuse box, the second half supplying switching and power to lights, etc.. in the rear of the car. Both half of the loom are out of my car now, to make it easier to trace, replace and add wires as necessary.

I was a bit daunted by the whole thing when I first contemplated all of these wiring modifications, but now I am getting into it I am quite enjoying it.
The next thing will be to work out what I need in my next order to VWP, self amalgamating tape, switches, inline connectors and anything else I can think of.

Just planning

Have not done that_much since getting the GT6 back, appart from re-fitting some components to get them out of the way and give me some idea of how to fit and link every thing together.

There are three main areas I want to concentrate on, the cooling system, fuel system and electrical systems. I believe the best place for the header tank for the cooling system would be in the battery tray, which of course means the battery will have to be re-located. The logical new site for the battery is in the boot area either behind the driver or next to the fuel tank, both sites will require the battery to be securely mounted and sealed.

As power is also required to get the fuel system fully functional, I have decided to concentrate on the electrical system first.

The current system uses only three fuses and two solenoids, the new system, which I have been musing over for a few hours now, will have space for 26 fuses and nine relays. The reasoning behind this is to make the electrical system safer, any faults easier to find, capable of supplying the extra power now required and up to modern standards.

The big bulkhead mounted solenoid will be redundant, replaced by the solenoid on the Nippon Denso starter and the horn relay and flasher units will be replaced with modern type electronic units all fitted in a combined fuse and relay box.