Ecurie Cymraeg Historic Rally

Yesterday Ecurie Cymraeg's Historic rally passed by our front gate, so I thought I'd go and have a look. There were quite a few interesting cars, including three TR4's, a Vitesse and a MkI 2000, though I only managed to get pictures of a few of them.

New '43' Camshaft

While the bonnet was at the bodyshop, GT delivered and fitted one of his '43' profile camshafts. We went through a few duplex camwheels to time it in best, including a re-pro one, which was completely useless, but ended up using the same one as before. Once re-assembled, using the old ignition map it had lost in the bottom end a bit, but after some tweaks of the ignition map it have really come to life, with it coming on cam at around 4k rpm. As the was bonnet at the bodyshop we not been able to take it out onto the main road, but it does seem to pull quite cleanly upto atleast 7k rpm.

While doing the camshaft change I was able to change the engine front plate again, back to a GT6 one, which should give me more space to fit the hoses between the airbox on the engine and the filter box (below the radiator)

Once the parts were back from the bodyshop I was able to take it back over to the rolling road at Maynards to fine tune the ignition map, see what it is doing now and work out what needs to be done next. What we quickly worked out was that the standard silenced I had fitted, 51mm outlet, was only now restricting the engine to about 150bhp. The silencer was soon removed and the remainder of the runs done with out it, this was not a surprise to me as it had always been the plan to go for a larger silencer. So onto the results from the runs;

Power

Torque

The top line of each is the current setup less silencer and the one below with silencer. This makes the best figures so far of 175bhp at 6409rpm and 149lb ft at 5653rpm.
After the silencer there should be more power to be found with a bit more valve lift and a higher compression ratio, but I really need to look at the suspension setup and brakes first.

Fresh paint

I'm a bit out of date again, sorry. A few weeks ago I had a message to tell me the parts I took over a few weeks ago were painted, finished and ready for collection. A few days later I went over with the trailer again to make the collection.

The following day the body, bonnet and chassis was lifted from the trailer, with the bonnet going back onto the car it came from. To make it easier to work around in the workshop, the body was then taken from the chassis and put back onto a wooden frame and to prevent the doors getting damaged, they were also re-hung on the body.
The next job on this body will be to stone chip the wheel arches and fill it up with cavity wax, probably Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50. Not 100% sure what to do with the underside, at the moment it is undersealed, but I'm not keen on the stiff personally. I'd like to paint the inside the new colour before the wax goes in, so there is a bit of paint prep to be done first.

Stripping and welding

Since getting the bodytub back a few weeks ago, I've been working fairly hard to get it ready to go back over to the bodyshop for paint by the end of the month.
Paint stripping has been a bit laborious at times, making sure the old paint is out of every nook and cranny. This has mainly be done using Nitromoors to release the top layers, which can then be scraped off, just leaving the base coats, which were removed using a strip and clean disc on the angle grinder.

It was just as well that I decided to check every joint I could find on the body as it turned out that the majority of the welds along the bottom of the outer sills where not attached to anything else. This meant I could slip a scraper between the outer and inner sills, not good. I have now carefully seam welded the sills together.

Both sides of the windscreen frame needed repairs the the rear, the left hand side being easy, just needing a small patch at the bottom. However, the drivers side had rusted through the rain channel and the back of the pillar. Having removed the remains of the rain channel, I drilled and cut out part of the pillar as there was a lot of pitting by the angle.

Up front, the remains of cover strip over the roof lip was carefully cut at each end and peeled off. There was not much holding it on, so it came off without any further cutting. The surface below is a bit pitted in places and had gone through it a couple of places, but that was soon remedied with a bit of weld and ground back again. I'd already bought a replacement for this lip, which was over length, not a problem, but also the wrong 'U' profile, so I had to carefully cut a couple of milimeters off the entire length to allow it to sit back over the lip correctly. I'll ask the bodyshop to seal and spot-weld this in place when it goes back for paint.

One of the last jobs I did before sending it off to the bodyshop was repairs to the heelboards, both sides needed repairs around the outer mounting points. Rather than trying to make small patches, I decided to replace larger sections, which gave me a chance to check and paint the condition of the panel beneath.

The stripped body is now is now at the bodyshop, along with the bonnet, for preparation and paint, I hope to be able to collect it in the next month or so. Once back home I can start thinking about the re-fit, though it may be delayed a bit as I want to paint the inside and the weather is not really suitable for that at the moment.

Back home again

I'd hoped to collect the body before Christmas, but with the bit of snow we had, we decided it could wait until the new year. So earlier this week I trailered it back to the workshop. 

I'm aiming to get it back to the bodyshop in the second half of February, but before that there will be quite a bit of finishing to be done. The original plan was to try and get it seam sealed and painted internally before it went for paint, but considering the amount of other welding I need to do and how cold the weather is at the moment, it may have to wait until afterwards.
Think I'll resume by finishing off the radius arm brackets then work my way forward from the rear light panel, checking every joint and seam I can find. 
In the meantime I am looking for a chassis to borrow, as I could do with finding an easy and safe way to transport both the body and bonnet back to the bodyshop for paint.

GT6 Bulkhead reconstruction part 2

With the recent cold weather we have been having I've not been so keen to work on the car recently, but I had agreed to move the body over to a bodyshop this week, so I wanted to get the bulkhead finished off if possible.
I don't have and in progress pictures this time, but once again  the floorpan has been remodelled and the new bulkhead section welded in place, though this time the piece was fabricated.

Back inside the car, one of the radius arm strengthening brackets has been moved across, this is because the body was swing spring and will be going to Jones/Bowler CV.

I've made a start on the other side, unfortunately this bracket has had plates welded over it, but I found a decent one on my other spare GT6 body.

The body is now over at the bodyshop to have the rear light panel, rear wing and outer arch fitted, which they reckon they may have done by the end of the week, then it's back to me to finish the bracket on the heel board, repair both toe boards where it bolts down through to the chassis, patch a couple of holes on the back of the screen frame, put a new lip on the leading edge of the roof and if there is time, seem seal and paint the inside, all ready from paint in February, at least that's the idea

GT6 rear wing preparation

After pulling out some dubious repairs from the rear wheel arch I worked out that the left hand rear wing had already had three repair panel welded on. The trouble with this is that the panels were not very good and had a thick layer of filler over them to cover it up, so I decided to get a new wing.
The complication here is that the fuel filler cap is in this wing and the company that produces this wing do not do the pressing for the fuel filler, but one of their suppliers could do the pressing, so I ordered an appropriate wing from them. Unfortunately it was not quite as I had hoped, the red one below is an original and the black a re-pro pressing.

I asked the company if they could do better and they said no, so the wing was exchanged at their cost for one without a filler hole and I set about moving a filler hole across. I started by marking up all the parts with masking tape to give me reference points of where the filler hole should be.

Then the filler panel was trimmed down and a hole cut in the new wing to allow me to drop the piece in before doing the final cut around, just in case I had it in the wrong place.

Once happy with this, the proper size hole was cut in the new wing before welding the hole in place. 

It's going to need a bit more finishing and possibly a skim of filler before paint, but I'm fairly happy with the result and glad that I should have something that looks right when fitted.