Keeping the rust at bay

Having put so much effort into the replacement bodytub, I really wanted to make sure I was not going to have any bodywork issues for some time. Waxoyl is a commonly know make of cavity wax, but while looking around for the costs of it, I found things have moved on and there are other products, which perform much better. Based on cost, availability, and reviews, I went for Dynax S50 from Bilt Hamber. Along with a five litre can I ordered a injection lance, which is a length of tube with a diffuser on the end to make sure the 'wax' is thrown out 360degrees to coat all surfaces.

I didn't take any pictures while using the Dynax S50 as there isn't a lot to see really, but all the usual areas, such as around the wheel arches, in the sills and in the windscreen surround (especially over the top where GT6's like to rot out) were suitably coated.

With the inside and top side of the body all protected, there was just the underside to do, the job I was least looking forward to. As before, I wanted to coat the underside in something which would last, but all of the products I considered using required a clean and preferably bare metal surface. The headache I had here was that the underside had been coated with some form black Schultz underseal, which has a nasty habit of trapping water underneath it, but remains sticky, making it a pain to remove.

The process of stripping the underside took me quite a few evenings and weekends, it can be hard to motivate yourself to go and lie on a concrete floor to scrape off underseal and paint. The process I found most effective in the end was to scrape as much off by hand as possible, then use a bevel twisted knot wire brush on a angle grinder to get into the nooks and crannies to remove any last underseal. After that, it was a mix of strip & clean discs and flap discs to get the underside stripped.

After a bit more research, I had whittled it down to POR15 and Rust Bullet for the new underbody paint. I chose Rust Bullet this time as the overcoating did not need a primer, this paint is also UV resistant, unlike POR15, but I wanted to paint the underside in body colour anyway.

Rust Bullet needs two coats within four hours of each other, so the whole area I wanted to paint had to be accessible at once, this meant supporting the body from the extremities, not something I would recommend if you have any doubts about the strength of your body.

Screwfix sell single use paint brushes, which were just the job as I doubt it would have been worth using good quality brushes when there was little chance of cleaning them properly again. Eye protection and rubber gloves were also used, I did get a bit of paint on me and that took ages to remove, so I just hope it sticks to the car just as well.

24 hours after the second coat of Rust Bullet was applied I gave it a coat of green so it stands out less. The body has now been put aside while I prepare the car to remove the old body and carry out a few changes.

Back to the GT6, more paint

With the replacement GT6 body safely back on it's stand in the barn, I set about painting the interior. I've done this to of course protect the steel, but also to put all of the interior in one solid colour, to make any modifications and previous less obvious. It's been painted using sythetic paint as it was readily available and could be brush painted, I really did not want to have to mask-up the car to spray paint or risk over-spray on the good paintwork.

While working on the body, I've been servicing some of the smaller parts and I turned my attention to the rear lights. Compared to modern vehicles, Triumph lights can look a little dull, not helped by the condition of the reflectors. Mine were looking particully dull as the majority of the relective coating had fallen off over the past 40 years or so, so the reflectors were carefully pushed out of their holders and first given a coat of primer.

And then 'Chrome' paint, which doesn't seem to have the same shine as the stuff I have used before, but should be a vast improvement of what was there.

Once the paint was cured, the reflectors were fitted back into the light unit and I set about re-assembly, with a new gasket between the unit and the lenses. Unfortunately, the curretly available gaskets from one supplier are too small in both length and height, it seems as if it has shrunk.

I'll try a few more parts suppliers to see if anyone has lamp gaskets that fit, but I fear they are all being made in the same place, so I may have to find some suitable material and cut some out myself.

Ecurie Cymraeg Historic Rally

Yesterday Ecurie Cymraeg's Historic rally passed by our front gate, so I thought I'd go and have a look. There were quite a few interesting cars, including three TR4's, a Vitesse and a MkI 2000, though I only managed to get pictures of a few of them.

New '43' Camshaft

While the bonnet was at the bodyshop, GT delivered and fitted one of his '43' profile camshafts. We went through a few duplex camwheels to time it in best, including a re-pro one, which was completely useless, but ended up using the same one as before. Once re-assembled, using the old ignition map it had lost in the bottom end a bit, but after some tweaks of the ignition map it have really come to life, with it coming on cam at around 4k rpm. As the was bonnet at the bodyshop we not been able to take it out onto the main road, but it does seem to pull quite cleanly upto atleast 7k rpm.

While doing the camshaft change I was able to change the engine front plate again, back to a GT6 one, which should give me more space to fit the hoses between the airbox on the engine and the filter box (below the radiator)

Once the parts were back from the bodyshop I was able to take it back over to the rolling road at Maynards to fine tune the ignition map, see what it is doing now and work out what needs to be done next. What we quickly worked out was that the standard silenced I had fitted, 51mm outlet, was only now restricting the engine to about 150bhp. The silencer was soon removed and the remainder of the runs done with out it, this was not a surprise to me as it had always been the plan to go for a larger silencer. So onto the results from the runs;

Power

Torque

The top line of each is the current setup less silencer and the one below with silencer. This makes the best figures so far of 175bhp at 6409rpm and 149lb ft at 5653rpm.
After the silencer there should be more power to be found with a bit more valve lift and a higher compression ratio, but I really need to look at the suspension setup and brakes first.

Fresh paint

I'm a bit out of date again, sorry. A few weeks ago I had a message to tell me the parts I took over a few weeks ago were painted, finished and ready for collection. A few days later I went over with the trailer again to make the collection.

The following day the body, bonnet and chassis was lifted from the trailer, with the bonnet going back onto the car it came from. To make it easier to work around in the workshop, the body was then taken from the chassis and put back onto a wooden frame and to prevent the doors getting damaged, they were also re-hung on the body.
The next job on this body will be to stone chip the wheel arches and fill it up with cavity wax, probably Bilt Hamber's Dynax S50. Not 100% sure what to do with the underside, at the moment it is undersealed, but I'm not keen on the stiff personally. I'd like to paint the inside the new colour before the wax goes in, so there is a bit of paint prep to be done first.

Stripping and welding

Since getting the bodytub back a few weeks ago, I've been working fairly hard to get it ready to go back over to the bodyshop for paint by the end of the month.
Paint stripping has been a bit laborious at times, making sure the old paint is out of every nook and cranny. This has mainly be done using Nitromoors to release the top layers, which can then be scraped off, just leaving the base coats, which were removed using a strip and clean disc on the angle grinder.

It was just as well that I decided to check every joint I could find on the body as it turned out that the majority of the welds along the bottom of the outer sills where not attached to anything else. This meant I could slip a scraper between the outer and inner sills, not good. I have now carefully seam welded the sills together.

Both sides of the windscreen frame needed repairs the the rear, the left hand side being easy, just needing a small patch at the bottom. However, the drivers side had rusted through the rain channel and the back of the pillar. Having removed the remains of the rain channel, I drilled and cut out part of the pillar as there was a lot of pitting by the angle.

Up front, the remains of cover strip over the roof lip was carefully cut at each end and peeled off. There was not much holding it on, so it came off without any further cutting. The surface below is a bit pitted in places and had gone through it a couple of places, but that was soon remedied with a bit of weld and ground back again. I'd already bought a replacement for this lip, which was over length, not a problem, but also the wrong 'U' profile, so I had to carefully cut a couple of milimeters off the entire length to allow it to sit back over the lip correctly. I'll ask the bodyshop to seal and spot-weld this in place when it goes back for paint.

One of the last jobs I did before sending it off to the bodyshop was repairs to the heelboards, both sides needed repairs around the outer mounting points. Rather than trying to make small patches, I decided to replace larger sections, which gave me a chance to check and paint the condition of the panel beneath.

The stripped body is now is now at the bodyshop, along with the bonnet, for preparation and paint, I hope to be able to collect it in the next month or so. Once back home I can start thinking about the re-fit, though it may be delayed a bit as I want to paint the inside and the weather is not really suitable for that at the moment.

Back home again

I'd hoped to collect the body before Christmas, but with the bit of snow we had, we decided it could wait until the new year. So earlier this week I trailered it back to the workshop. 

I'm aiming to get it back to the bodyshop in the second half of February, but before that there will be quite a bit of finishing to be done. The original plan was to try and get it seam sealed and painted internally before it went for paint, but considering the amount of other welding I need to do and how cold the weather is at the moment, it may have to wait until afterwards.
Think I'll resume by finishing off the radius arm brackets then work my way forward from the rear light panel, checking every joint and seam I can find. 
In the meantime I am looking for a chassis to borrow, as I could do with finding an easy and safe way to transport both the body and bonnet back to the bodyshop for paint.